Monday, July 14, 2008

Well, we are finally back in Midrand (midway between Jo-Burg and Pretoria) with wireless Internet.  We left the village earlier this evening, and it was a sad parting of ways.  

We have been very busy this past week.  Colleen (me) continued working with the children through the weekend.  Needless to say, I learned many new children's games.  Of course, they are all said in Tshwane or Ndbele, but the kids really enjoyed my efforts.  They also discovered my love for dancing, as we exchanged Ndbele ceremonial dance moves with the Electric Slide.  My vast knowledge of hand jives from my childhood and card games and tricks came in handy.  

The kids returned to school today after a two week holiday.  So, I was able to visit a high school.  I sat in on a few classes, but the attendance was paltry!  School is compulsory here only through grade nine.  High school (or Upper Four) begins at Grade 10, and they specialize.  There are math and science academies, literature schools, etc.  The one I visited today was a skills or trade school.  They do teach some core areas such as Grade 11 history (which the teacher was very uncomfortable with me observing), but this particular school specialized in "soft skills" such as sewing, cooking, and knitting and trade skills such as construction, carpentry, welding, etc.  The schools are a bit lackadaisical about their rules and attendance policies, and it was very hard for me not to say anything.  It was very interesting, though.  This school fields students in from the neighboring villages, so it is a public school and poor per standard.  

Monica has been busy with clinic work - testing for TB, HIV, and such.  Although she did not get to visit a hospital, her time at the clinic was an invaluable insight into the conditions of healthcare here.  The clinic, although now free thanks to the government, is run by Catholic nuns and transport is limited.  So, many of the villagers need to walk to get there.  For the people of Mapoch, this distance is considerable, which the elderly just cannot manage.  Public transport is costly, so for many of the villagers it is simply a matter of putting food on the table or managing their health.  

We have become quick friends with everybody in the village and surrounding areas.  They have introduced us to their history, their culture, their lifestyle, and I truly believe we have gotten more out of the experience than we gave to them.  We have learned the Ndbele tradition of beading.  In fact, the gogos were impressed with my self-drawn patterns.  As I said, I learned some new dances and games.  Some of the children tried out for a French cultural festival last Wednesday.  We had the honor of observing and even participating a bit.  If they are chosen, they get free transport and accommodations in France for a month.  We are all hoping and praying they get chosen.  I don't see how they couldn't; they are absolutely amazing!  

The Ndbele are a wonderful group of people.  They live very traditional lives with specific gender roles, yet they are adapting to the modern world.  They have many legends that persist, such as women are not allowed in the crawl (men's gathering spot) or they will have no more children.  Complaints against other people are first handled within the community before the police are called.  For an average wedding, the price of a bride is 10 cattle.  Cattle are currently valued at 3 and a half to 5,000 rand a head (about $700).  So, it often takes years to pay of the bridal price.  Although today it is more accepted to live with one another before the cost is fully paid, but you cannot have a formal wedding until the debt is paid off.  Although cattle are expensive, goats are more so.  They are only killed and eaten for special ceremonies.  Electricity is metered.  The villagers buy a card, like a prepaid phone card, that they put money on and that is how their electricity use is gauged and paid.  Thus, the frequent outages.   

Culturally, we also attended an African Apostolic service.  For those who complain about the length of the Catholic mass, the Catholics have nothing on the Apostolics!  They made their service short for us.  The pastor told us to be there at 12; the service had started at 11, and we did not finish until 2:30!  And that was the short service!  We also shared with a tribal elder a traditional drink, umquombothi.  I cannot even begin to describe it.  Let's say it was not up to American standards of beer.  I did, however, experience a shebeen.  A shebeen is not a licensed drinking establishment, so it was interesting to say the least.  Mix in that I was the only non-black individual and that I was American, and you can imagine the fun they had with me.  

Well, I am posting some pictures as well today.  I also have videos of the dancing, and the kids just saying hi and such.  We will post again tomorrow.  

Signing off, 
"Lekhoalaka," as the kids call me (my white lady),
 or my new Ndbele name - "Nomhlekgabo," which means "Nice, beautiful lady at home."  I wonder how I earned that.....
  

1 comment:

Unknown said...

It sounds amazing. Enjoy the rest of your time, but remember, no chasing animals. The Martins miss you!!!
Love you
Kim